September 6, 2008

The Art of Thai Massage


Some of you may know and others may not that (to date) I have gotten a massage in every country that I have visited. It's just what the doctor ordered ('course the doctor is me). It's one of those things I do for research purposes. You understand...
So what exactly is Thai massage and how does it differ from other forms of massage.
Setting the Stage
It's hot and humid in Bangkok. Really humid. I walk across a bridge to go shopping (about 1/2 mile away). I walk up and down stairs to take the sky train. I walk up and down stairs to cross the road via walk overs (The traffic literally will kill yeah in Bangkok). Needless to say a massage is just what you need to relax. As I cross over the bridge, I'm created by a handful of Thai women dressed in black pants and pink polo shirts waving signs. "Thai massage Madame?" The sign says only 180 baht body or foot massage. Next door, their competitors dressed in yellow shirts and black pants also wave signs, smile sweetly. One or two are eating some noodles. A couple sit on the bench, feet curled up under them. Pink is a favorite color in Thailand (More about colors in a later post) so I pick the shop with the pink topped workers.
I tell them I would like a Thai massage. "How long madame? " I pause only long enough to do the math. I hour equal $5.29. Two hours I say. "Sit, please sit." I sit on a wooden bench. One of the workers takes my shoes and socks off, placing them on the shoe rack. From behind the counter, a small boy peeks out. Many Thais I have noticed take their kids with them to work. The youngster comes out and grabs my hand then dashes over to the next bench and jumps off. Superman. I understood him. I understood him flying by as well.

The work whose name is Amp ( I later learn) comes back with a small plastic container of water. She places it down and washes my feet with a small brush. She dries them off and places some slippers on my feet. "Come. We go up now." It is my understanding that the feet are considered the unholiest part of the body. Therefore, they need to be clean before any work is done. It also makes sense because most people wear sandals, no socks and have smelly, dirty toes in Bangkok. Too darn hot for socks and boots (It's my third week here and I've now also dumped the support socks in favor of "air conditioned" legs.)

We travel up some treacherous steep stairs to the second floor. Futon-like Mattresses neatly line the floor. Red gingham checked curtains that can be pulled close are between the massage pads. I'm handed some bergundy-colored knee-lengh PJs to change into. Given my lack of flexibility, I awkwardly stand atop the matress and change clothes, removing jewelry, slippers etc. I lie down on the matress with my face buried in a pillow as I would in the U.S. Afterall, they'll start with the back ... Boy am I wrong
First difference
My masseuse tells me to turn over and lie on my back. I comply. The work begins as she tells me in broken English to let her know if "too hard or too soft." I wait for the lotion or oil to be applied. It isn't at any time. That's difference number 2. Thai massage focuses on manipulating the body, slowly and mindfully. There is no need to the hands to slide over the skin. Therefore, Thai massage needs no oil or lotion.

The massage begins with your feet because that is the beginning source of all energy entering and leaving the body. They kneed your feet, your legs. About half of the two hour massage I had focused only on the legs. Your legs are stretched and bent into what some people say are various yoga positions. Since I can't even bend and get on my knees to do most yoga positions, I was utterly amazed how they were able to move my legs in various positions.
The massuese uses his or her entire body in the process. Sometimes (she generic) would stand between my legs and put pressure on my legs, or where my hip sockets are. Other times elbows would be used. Sometimes my leg would cradled in her hands and she sat on the mat and worked on my leg. One then the other. She bent my leg at the knee and very slowly ever so slowly (they are taught to move slowly and thoughtfully) she bent the knee and leg outward to the ground. Another time across my body to stretch my back. Somtimes she would pull back on the leg. Other times push the sole of my foot to flex my ankles. What was amazing is that it really didn't hurt. Yes I knew she was there but it didn't hurt like physical therapy or exercising at the gym.
I think what suprised me most was just how tender my thigh muscles were. Normally, I have always blamed the tension and soreness on tight calf muscles. She found pressure points in my thighs that I never knew were sore at all. But they definitely were tender. It radiated down the leg.
Once the legs were done, arms were next. The same thoughtful, careful process. She bent in positions that I couldn't even think to bend in to work on my body. There was thumping as well and stretching. No heat, no oil, no creams.
Only then I turned over my back. But once again I was surprised. it was more stretching and pressure points and slow tracing of muscles down the back of my leg. Only a tiny portion of the time was devoted to my back. Very different than the traditional Swedish massage or even the Chinese massages I have had.
Eventually, she had me sit up as she slid behind me and cradled my head in her folder legs. "It's alright madame." She slowly moved the muscles in my neck. Because I could not see for sure, I believe she used her elbows and fore arms for some of the work. For such a small woman. Those hands had power! They traced down the middle of my back. Around my head. Pulse points by my ears. She used what I would equate to acupressure on my face, hitting the major sinus spots I am familar with as well as a few other tender points on the face. The massage ended with her flicking my hair and in a sense rubbing my head so that the hair made a crunchy sound in my ears. Much softer and gentler than the famous head massages I received in India which were more like head bonks!. This reminded me of being a kid in my mom's beauty shop where she would give me a scalp massage with hot oil. The difference was that no oil was used.
The only thing I would change about my massage was the room temperature. While a big towel was used to cover me, it did not keep me warm enough. My arm and hands closest to the air conditioner got very cold.
Many people say you are sore for a day after a Thai massage. This was not the case for me. I felt really good. Maybe too good because I wanted to take a nap. But it was good ... Oh so good. I frankly liked the Thai massage I received from the woman more than the man because it did not hurt. He moved my knees rapidly and they didn't want to move. Then again, perhaps by the time my female massage worked on me, I was bit looser. Afterall, I have been walking everywhere. But it was heaven.
I paid my 360 bahts. The dollar is now worth 34 bahts so the cost was $1. I have my massuese a 100 baht tip. Remember the minimum wage in Thailand is only 203 baht a day.
I plan to do a lot more research on Thail massage in the future.


Vandra in bliss


Extending and stretching the entire muscular system stimulate the local circular of the skin,

the connective tissue and muscles.

1 comment:

Mike Brady said...

Great story. Thanks for sharing.